How can neural networks exhibit persistent activity on time scales much larger than allowed by cellular properties? We address this question in the context of larval zebrafish, a model vertebrate that is accessible to brain-scale neuronal recording and high-throughput behavioral studies. We study in particular the dynamics of a bilaterally distributed circuit, the so-called ARTR, including hundreds neurons. ARTR exhibits slow antiphasic alternations between its left and right subpopulations, which can be modulated by the water temperature, and drive the coordinated orientation of swim bouts, thus organizing the fish spatial exploration. To elucidate the mechanism leading to the slow self-oscillation, we train a network graphical model (Ising) on neural recordings. Sampling the inferred model allows us to generate synthetic oscillatory activity, whose features correctly capture the observed dynamics. A mean-field analysis of the inferred model reveals the existence several phases; activated crossing of the barriers in between those phases controls the long time scales present in the network oscillations. We show in particular how the barrier heights and the nature of the phases vary with the water temperature.